Why do they say “the cut of a diamond” rather than “the shape of a diamond”? Simple — because it really has little to do with shape.
As we’ve discussed, the diamond has a number of special properties, which only become apparent when it is cut and polished properly. A natural diamond can look very dull and drab indeed, compared to the look of the finished gem.
Centuries of experimentation and craft, and even plenty of applied science, have given us a number of “best” ways to cut a diamond. Which ones are prized the most is sometimes merely a matter of fashion, but there are relatively few cuts that are universally agreed to most efficiently suit the gem’s properties.
- Brilliant Cut - the brilliant is the most popular cut, and the round brilliant is considered ideal (all other cuts are called “fancy cuts” and are generally less prized). The gem appears round from above, with a classic 5-pointed diamond silhouette when viewed from the side. The top half (the ‘crown’) is usually flattened (truncated) creating one large facet in the center, surrounded by traditionally 33 facets along the side of the crown. The lower point (the ‘pavilion’) traditionally has 25 facets.
- Princess Cut - also extremely popular, especially in recent years, the Princess cut is a ‘mixed cut’ (mainly ‘brilliant’ but with ’step cuts’ as well) with a square or rectangular shape
- Emerald cut - not to be confused with the Princess cut, the Emerald cut is also rectangular or square…but unlike a brilliant cut diamond, the facets themselves are also rectangular (a ’step-cut’ or ‘trap-cut’) — which highlights the clarity of the gem rather than the brilliance. Very long rectangular step-cuts are commonly known as ‘baguettes’
- Marquise cut - less popular now than in past years, this modified brilliant cut is typically shaped like an oval but with points on the top and bottom.
- Oval cut - unlike the Marquise, the oval modified brilliant has no points but the same general dimensions; longer than a Round Brilliant cut of the same width.
- Pear cut - half oval, half Marquise; the pear cut is a modified brilliant with one rounded top and one pointed bottom (as seen from above)
- Radiant cut - a modified brilliant similar to a Princess cut, but with trimmed corners that move the gem closer to the Emerald (though not the cut).
- Heart cut - here’s one that is more of a shape than a cut. Basically a modified brilliant cut but with a heart shape overall. Though quite popular, the diamond’s own qualities tend to be less efficiently revealed.
- Cushion cut / Pillow cut - a happy medium between round and square cuts as well as brilliant and emerald cuts. Rounded edges and large facets really highlight clarity and brilliance, so this cut works best with a high-quality gem.
